Two – one of a kind – Mphongolo Back-pack Trails (Part 2)

Campsite overlooking the Phugwane River

In seeing the departure of the first group I changed my shirt, switch food packs and greeted the next lot of eager trail candidates. I had just got back into the swing of doing a trail and was as eager as them to head out again. This time we were walking the Dilli to Zari route along the Phugwane River, where some of the alluvial flood plains allow for the development of tall trees, protected over the years have created some of

the most spectacular trees within the area.

Centipede lapping up water droplets

We got drop off at Dilli with the clouds rolling in, the presence of rain drawing nearer is strange for this time of the year yet it is what we were given. The guest cautiously asked “Is it going to rain?” lulling the expectations down to where we were, we then started our trail anticipating everything and expecting nothing.

The stretch from our drop-off down to the first pool was probably our most productive walk for the trail. Starting off with kudu, we came across impala, warthog and a herd of elephant, with a clearing underneath and tall stand of Apple-leaf trees and Leadwoods, we watch a little ecosystem unfold before our eyes. The elephant slowly moved up and past us, the warthog studded the ground with his nose and the impala eventually snorted as they ran off. Approaching the waterhole, there wasn't much happening and with the waterhole three times the normal size due to the floods, there were even smaller pools further downstream. Looking carefully we spotted a herd of zebra and waterbuck, lulling around the water edges.

Sitting out the rain underneath a huge nyalaberry tree.

With all the excitement we carried on and got around a few bends, chasing the odd waterbuck herd off to settle at our campsite for the night. We chose an elevated spot above the high bank looking up and down the great Phugwane River. After setting up, in needing to go to the bathroom and hearing ox-peckers I left the group to finish settling in and went to see what the ox-peckers were sitting on. There I found a group of three buffalo, with the wind blowing towards them, they picked up my scent and fled. I then went in search of a spot of my own for a while...

Early the next morning and with an overcast cool day, were walked over onto a smaller (yet still magnificent) tributary of the Phugwane and slowly wondered our way down it to the Phugwane River. We come across signs of buffalo, elephant and white rhino, needless to say we were unfortunate not to see them. With the odd flushed steenbok and grysbok, a highlight was a huge centipede that had emerged from hiding to lap up a few drops of water after the mist rain we had earlier. Breakfast, was taken underneath a Nyalaberry with the clouds still dampening the skies. After breakfast to keep warm we pressed onward slowly.

General habitat and pools along the Phugwane River after the floods this year

Hippo at camp

We reached the Phugwane River and slowly meandered downstream with the river, passing extensive water point after extensive water point. Game seemed to be scarce, with a couple of impala, waterbuck and zebra herds scattered along the route, we took a break every now and then and paused underneath the majestic trees that towered over us at times. We eventually reach our campsite around lunch time. As we paused watching the view our campsite offered a solitary hippo emerged from his slumber and anxious to leave but too nervous to he provided the entertainment for the afternoon. We set up camp under a huge jackal berry tree and it was here we stay the next two nights. That afternoon we went further downstream to explore the area a little more and surprised a leopard, which only myself and my back-up saw running off. It disappeared so quickly the group was not so fortunate to see it. we walk around a bit more before heading back to camp. With the resident impala herd lulling around Zari waterhole we settled in camp for supper and a restful night with the sound of the hippo disturbing the water every now and then.

Campsite, underneath a grand Jackalberry tree

The next day, we set out in search of a small koppie I had seen driving in and out of the wilderness area but never reached it before. I decided it was time to find it. So with the whole day laying ahead of us I set out in the direction it was said to be. Following an elephant path we stopped now and then for the odd interesting thing. we came across aardvark tracks from the night before and a few holes he could have possibly lay in but that was it. We carried on along the elephant path and eventually the koppie started to rise taller than the trees not far away. Being a ridge more than a hill, we climb it and rested for breakfast over looking the entire area between the Phugwane and Bububu River. I could see where I was a couple of nights ago, knowing that it was a good 20km walk away. The view was superb and the time spent their too short. Again the weather got us walking, watching a storm move across the mopaneveld we hustled up and got out of its path. Touched only by a slight drizzle we made our way back onto the Phugwane River. Getting to the River as our stomachs started to grumble indicating it was lunch time. We found a shady spot under a large sycamore fig tree and collected some water out of the sand. With our mouths full and bodies rested we walked back to camp sighting a giant eagle-owl being mobbed by almost every bird in the area. We also found a solitary Buffalo bull grazing along the bank. With the same impala herd around Zari and the odd crocodile in the pools downstream we settled back in camp for the night.

A view overlooking the Zari and Phugwane confluence in the heart of the Mphongolo wilderness trail

Final morning and as with great things, it had to come to an end. We walked up the Zari spruit to where we had the vehicle waiting for us to take us back. On route we had a great sighting of a herd of giraffe, as they clumsily moved through the mopane bush we followed suite until we reach our destination. it was our only time constraint for the trail, yet a tough one to bare knowing it meant a ride out of a great place.

Early morning mist rising on a clear morning after a couple of days with drizzle